Трудове́ навча́ння
When I started fifth grade in 2005, a new subject appeared in my curriculum: Labor Training. In this class, students were separated by gender and taught traditional gender-assigned skills—boys worked with metal, construction, and woodworking, while girls learned knitting, cooking, sewing, and embroidery. Despite our gymnasium’s progressive, pro-Ukrainian stance—where even girls wore pants as part of the uniform—it still upheld this deeply rooted labor division, a tradition that, as I recently discovered, dates back to the 19th century:
“At the end of 1890, a school was opened in Katerynoslav, where additional academic subjects and extracurricular practical and educational activities were introduced to establish a link between school and life.” (Tsyna, A. Yu., & Tytarenko, V. M. ,2021)
The idea behind Labor Training was to prepare students for adulthood and equip them with practical skills for the workforce. However, in reality, few took it seriously. Mathematics, languages, and history were seen as the subjects that truly shaped one’s future—where grades actually mattered. It was difficult to imagine how embroidery could contribute to a serious career.
I distinctly remember when our class reached the cooking module. We were instructed to bring bread and pâté to make sandwiches—for the boys. Our teacher explained that this was meant to prepare us for being good wives. I recall that most of the girls were unimpressed by this sentiment and outright refused to hand over the fruits of their labor to the boys.
Alongside Labor Training, we had another seemingly unserious subject called Ethics. As I later learned, it was introduced as an alternative to traditional religious studies, which are common in the European context, and to the once-mandatory communist ideology courses of the USSR. In this class, we explored various philosophical perspectives, human rights, and foundational ethical principles. It was an engaging subject, taught by our history teacher—a young Afghanistan war veteran who, in light of Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine, has since rejoined the army.
In a rather unconventional way, these subjects and experiences led me to study contemporary labor practices in art—where labor oscillates between the ideology it inherits and an inevitable desire to reject that very ideology through its creations.
As part of the Arbeitsstipendium I received from the city of Vienna, I have returned to embroidery as a movement research practitioner. My approach explores its durability, rhythm, patterns, and socio-political context through a feminist lens. What follows are sketches of my research, documented and communicated through text, photography, and video.
Cross-Stitch Study.Cross-stitch is a form of embroidery that involves creating patterns using X-shaped stitches on even-weave fabric, such as Aida or linen. With roots tracing back to ancient Egypt and China, it has been a popular decorative art across cultures. Traditionally used to embellish household textiles, clothing, and religious artifacts, cross-stitch remains a beloved craft today, blending tradition with contemporary design.
Modern cross-stitch artists experiment with colors, textures, and themes, often incorporating political and social messages into their work. Whether used for personal expression or cultural storytelling, this meticulous craft continues to connect generations through thread and needle.
Satin Stitch Study.Satin stitch is a classic embroidery technique used to create smooth, solid areas of color by placing closely spaced parallel stitches. This method allows for a glossy, almost painted effect, making it ideal for filling shapes, lettering, and decorative motifs. It is commonly used in traditional embroidery styles, from Chinese silk embroidery to European needlework.
The beauty of satin stitch lies in its precision—carefully placed stitches create a seamless, flowing texture that enhances fabric with depth and shine. Whether applied by hand or machine, this technique remains a staple in textile art, fashion, and home décor.
Running Stitch Study.Running stitch is one of the simplest and most fundamental embroidery techniques, consisting of evenly spaced straight stitches that move in and out of the fabric. Used for both decorative and functional purposes, it appears in traditional embroidery, quilting, and hand-sewn seams.
This stitch is found in various cultural textile traditions, such as Japanese sashiko and Indian kantha embroidery. Its versatility makes it ideal for outlining designs, adding texture, or reinforcing fabric. Though simple, the running stitch remains an essential tool in the world of needlework.
Chain Stitch Study.Chain stitch is a looping embroidery technique that creates a series of interconnected stitches resembling a chain. Known for its flexibility and textured appearance, it is often used for outlining, filling shapes, and adding intricate details to designs.
This stitch has been widely used in traditional embroidery across cultures, from Persian and Indian textiles to European folk art. It is also the foundation of tambour embroidery, a technique that later influenced early machine embroidery. With its rich history and decorative appeal, chain stitch remains a favorite among textile artists and embroiderers worldwide.
